Friday, May 11, 2012


 I cringe every time I read a blog post that starts off with “sorry, I know its been a long time since my last post.” It has been a while since I’ve written anything, and I’m not sorry, I’ve been busy.  This spring has been quite turbulent  for me, but I’ll stick to what I’ve been doing on the rock climbing  front.

After gaining back the weight and strength I lost in Venezuela this winter (which took the better part of a month), my good friend Nik Berry talked me into a massive Zion link-up. We climbed Sheer Lunacy, Moonlight Buttress, and Monkey Finger all free with one fall, in about 18 hours.  We we’re both pretty pooped.

Photo: Jeremiah Watt

As it seems to happen every spring, I gravitated back to the Moab area, where there exists a never-ending supply of radical first ascent projects to work on.  I didn’t end up sending any of these radical projects this spring, but I’ll have my work cut out for me this fall. The main route I was working on was a beautiful  micro-splitter, up on South Mesa. This flared, gently overhung crack delivers some of the most difficult and sustained trad climbing I have tried. I’m quite excited to get back up there and put‘r to bed.

Photo: Kyle Berkompas
Onsight, on Fallen Arches. Photo: Ally Coconis

Presently, I’m in an airplane bound for my birth state of Vermont. En-route to a week long expedition to the wild, and remote land of Quebec. Tabernac!

Also, check out a BITCH’N new 2 pitch route that my friend Burt Bronson and I put up this spring.      


  1. The new route looks rad mason!!!

  2. really inspirational. thanks for the post.

  3. Hi – Will you please post a link to your Blog at The Rock Climbing Community? Our members will love it.
    Members include: Other Rock Climbers, Guides, Experts and Clubs
    It's easy to do, just cut and paste the link and it automatically links back to your website… it’s a win win. You can also add Photos, Videos and equipment Classifieds if you like. It’s free and easy.
    Email me if you need any help or would like me to do it for you.
    The Rock Climbing Community:
    James Kaufman, Editor

  4. Rock climbing is a physical sport that does require training before you hit that big mountain. It requires physical training, mental training as well as technical training. Climbing can be very dangerous if you are not properly trained in the sport.

    climbing tips

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