Sunday, September 25, 2011


A big thanks to everyone who voted for our Venezuela expedition in the Berghaus Adventure Challenge- this recent victory will greatly help us fund the trip!

I'm in Yosemite Valley now, and have been getting out climbing in between short thunderstorms.  Several days ago a few friends and I went up to climb Heaven; a stunning 12d roof crack way up on glacier point. Heaven sits perched atop 3000 feet of slab, overlooking Vernal and Nevada falls, as well as Liberty Cap, Half Dome, Mt. Watkins, Washington Column, and the Royal Arches. Its a nice view

               Chugging my way to the top second go. photo- Pete Rhodes

   This is my friend Alex. He flashed it... without a rope.  photo- Mason Earle

In the next few weeks, Brad Gobright and I will head back up onto the Heart Route- making what will hopefully be our final bid to free climb the entire wall. We have been working on free-climbing the Heart Route for two years now, and have done all but one move- a massive 8 foot downward dyno. Most El Cap free routes seem to involve some monster dyno, but it may be possible to bypass the leap by tiptoeing thru some truly improbable micro edging. Time will tell.

            Free climbing on El Cap often requires Xtreme shenanigans

Monday, September 19, 2011


So I'm back in Yosemite, doing some training. Since I left Squamish, I soloed the RNWF of Half Dome in 4+ hours, climbed the Nose in 4+, and flailed up freerider in 10+. Its been good training for the bigger projects to come this fall. More importantly tho, I'm planning an expedition to venezuela this fall with some friends, and if you go to this website:

you can vote for our expedition to receive some funding. Voting ends tomorrow, and although we are kicking ass in the lead at the moment, it is by no means a sure victory.

We want to go climb this....