For the past year or so I have been spending a bit of time in the vicinity of Mill Creek, in the La Sal mountains above Moab, UT. One route in particular has kept my attention- a 70' seam on a steep wall of impeccable salmon colored sandstone. Before joining the neighboring corner and easier ground, the crack maintains the width of a 000 C3 to a 0 C3, so basically, it's really really thin. This makes for some wild and technical movement, and difficult gear placing. I gave several lead attempts on the line this past spring, with no success. I think my climbing ability was being sabotaged by my nerves as I attempted the crux above a 000 C3. This fall I was expecting the same mental battle, but I dispatched the rig on my first lead go. I always get a nice warm fuzzy feeling inside me when projects finish up like that. I called it 'Real Talk' with a grade of 5.13+. This pitch was some of the coolest trad climbing I have done; good rock, good gear, and fun movement. The only detractor is that it is in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE. Real Talk is 2.3 miles down canyon from the Wicked Crag, on the north side (south facing) of the canyon. Here are two photos from Andrew Burr on either end of the send. m
Photo- Andrew Burr
Photo- Andrew Burr
