tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-76786253337661386602024-03-13T20:03:31.369-07:00rock climbing XtremeMasonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-9850970119324514162012-12-30T14:07:00.000-08:002012-12-30T14:07:21.168-08:00xtreme climbing 2012The year two-thousand-twelve was great. I was lucky to have some incredible adventures with various ladies and gentlemen of extraordinary character. I had the opportunity to explore for a month in Venezuela, ski chest-deep snow in Utah, establish new crack climbs in Moab, ride helicopters in Yukon, scramble around Tuolumne and toil on impossible first ascents for over a month, bleed on Vedauwoo offwidths, and ride silly bicycles. What fun!<br />
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Huge roof</div>
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Siebe</div>
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Screen grab by Kyle Berkompas. Look for this </div>
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in the upcoming Feature from Chuck Fryberger Films</div>
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Early attempt on Real Talk. Another Screen Grab from </div>
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Finlayson Lake, Yukon</div>
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Indy Pass ice cave-Photo: Logan Fessler</div>
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Fremont Canyon</div>
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Elvis' Hammer</div>
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danger bicycle-Photo: Brent Cain</div>
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-Mason</div>
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<br />Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-32894199127472082482012-12-03T13:22:00.003-08:002012-12-03T13:39:27.580-08:00Toiling in the sandWith November already two days interred, I have thrown in the towel on another massively fun season in Moab. As usual, I spent the bulk of my time toiling away on first ascents - one of which (Real Talk) I actually finished up. For those interested, refer to the previous post on this blog for spray on that route. Completing long term projects leaves one with the option of finding a new project. This is a very exciting time for a first ascensionist, and there involves a process similar to a man looking for a mate. In the case of the new project I found, I could very well be getting into a long-term relationship. I've tried the route a few times now, and I'm so hopelessly far away from sending it that I'll reserve further spray for when I can at least 3-hang the beast. With snow beginning to fall on the state of Utah, I am reminded that I should have plenty of time to pull on plastic gym holds this winter and transform myself into an ATOMIC CRACK CLIMBING ROBOT!<br />
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Steep, and Green... Camalots, that is. Photo: Corbin Usinger</div>
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Photo: Corbin Usinger</div>
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Overhanging sand<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QkM1TYG3-fk/ULvOg8xhpAI/AAAAAAAAAOs/4vyifTdb45A/s1600/IMG_0174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QkM1TYG3-fk/ULvOg8xhpAI/AAAAAAAAAOs/4vyifTdb45A/s320/IMG_0174.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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Ryan Matson walks a 150' Highline</div>
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<br />Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-6035572130389488132012-11-09T10:23:00.000-08:002012-11-09T10:28:13.116-08:00-and thats some real talk<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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For the past year or so I have been spending a bit of time in the vicinity of Mill Creek, in the La Sal mountains above Moab, UT. One route in particular has kept my attention- a 70' seam on a steep wall of impeccable salmon colored sandstone. Before joining the neighboring corner and easier ground, the crack maintains the width of a 000 C3 to a 0 C3, so basically, it's really really thin. This makes for some wild and technical movement, and difficult gear placing. I gave several lead attempts on the line this past spring, with no success. I think my climbing ability was being sabotaged by my nerves as I attempted the crux above a 000 C3. This fall I was expecting the same mental battle, but I dispatched the rig on my first lead go. I always get a nice warm fuzzy feeling inside me when projects finish up like that. I called it 'Real Talk' with a grade of 5.13+. This pitch was some of the coolest trad climbing I have done; good rock, good gear, and fun movement. The only detractor is that it is in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE. Real Talk is 2.3 miles down canyon from the Wicked Crag, on the north side (south facing) of the canyon. Here are two photos from Andrew Burr on either end of the send. m </div>
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Photo- Andrew Burr</div>
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Photo- Andrew Burr</div>
Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-39746681382126313062012-10-25T15:29:00.000-07:002012-10-25T19:27:54.876-07:00WyomingWhen September rolled around this year I found myself aching to do something different. The season was about to start in Yosemite, but I have spent a fair chunk of time there and was not that excited. Instead, I talked my girlfriend into a trip to the smaller, less frequently travelled granite venues of Fremont Canyon, and Vedauwoo. We spent a day in Fremont Canyon so that I could climb Fiddler on the Roof; a classic roof crack from the late eighties that has been on my ticklist since I first saw the clip of Steve Petro sending it on youtube. It met all my expectations, and I nearly flashed it. I swear my fingertips needed only a centimeter more on the jug and it would have been done. Happy with a second-go hike, we packed up for Vedauwoo. Vedauwoo is absolutely sick- It is one of those destinations that is unique in all the world. I would put it alongside Indian Creek, and Yosemite Valley in that regard. the "Voo" has lots of nice crack climbing, and even some face climbing, but what makes it special are the grizzly, flared, and often overhung offwidths. During our week long stay we mostly stuck to the classics. "Classics" at the Voo include things like V8 squeeze chimneys. I can't wait to return. Here are a few photos from the trip. Enjoy.<br />
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Fiddler</div>
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Wyomig is a place for men</div>
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Photo- Michael Crapo</div>
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Photo- Michael Crapo</div>
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Photo- Michael Crapo</div>
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Photo- Michael Crapo</div>
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Squat. Photo- Michael Crapo</div>
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Trip Master Monkey. Photo Michael Crapo</div>
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The Warden. Photo- Michael Crapo</div>
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Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-19941824498564700342012-05-11T19:05:00.000-07:002012-05-11T19:05:07.756-07:00Spring<br />
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I cringe every time I read a blog post that starts off with
“sorry, I know its been a long time since my last post.” It has been a while
since I’ve written anything, and I’m not sorry, I’ve been busy. This spring has been quite
turbulent for me, but I’ll stick
to what I’ve been doing on the rock climbing front.</div>
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After gaining back the weight and strength I lost in
Venezuela this winter (which took the better part of a month), my good friend
Nik Berry talked me into a massive Zion link-up. We climbed Sheer Lunacy,
Moonlight Buttress, and Monkey Finger all free with one fall, in about 18
hours. We we’re both pretty
pooped.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5nPAPhKmTL0/T63BnRMGpBI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/T80exDWtgrg/s1600/522853_10150866233052235_52096482234_9626043_2026911529_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5nPAPhKmTL0/T63BnRMGpBI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/T80exDWtgrg/s320/522853_10150866233052235_52096482234_9626043_2026911529_n.jpg" width="212" /></a></div>
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<o:p>Photo: Jeremiah Watt</o:p></div>
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As it seems to happen every spring, I gravitated back to the
Moab area, where there exists a never-ending supply of radical first ascent
projects to work on. I didn’t end
up sending any of these radical projects this spring, but I’ll have my work cut
out for me this fall. The main route I was working on was a beautiful micro-splitter, up on South Mesa. This
flared, gently overhung crack delivers some of the most difficult and sustained
trad climbing I have tried. I’m quite excited to get back up there and put‘r to
bed. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gSD6Kem-7c4/T63CASwih5I/AAAAAAAAAJ8/hgxYQKOonEA/s1600/A038_C043_05056C_001.0000831.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="135" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gSD6Kem-7c4/T63CASwih5I/AAAAAAAAAJ8/hgxYQKOonEA/s320/A038_C043_05056C_001.0000831.tiff" width="320" /></a></div>
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Photo: Kyle Berkompas</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sVsOWfpC4GU/T63CiVO_LrI/AAAAAAAAAKE/g8bN81L3fjY/s1600/L1030422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sVsOWfpC4GU/T63CiVO_LrI/AAAAAAAAAKE/g8bN81L3fjY/s320/L1030422.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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Onsight, on Fallen Arches. Photo: Ally Coconis</div>
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Presently, I’m in an airplane bound for my birth state of
Vermont. En-route to a week long expedition to the wild, and remote land of
Quebec. Tabernac!</div>
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Also, check out a BITCH’N new 2 pitch route that my friend
Burt Bronson and I put up this spring. <br />
<a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/bacon-in-the-sun/107568044">http://mountainproject.com/v/bacon-in-the-sun/107568044</a> </div>
</div>Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-5739811071368617962012-03-01T18:20:00.010-08:002012-03-08T12:29:52.570-08:00Kids With Guns<div class="MsoNormal">Venezuela, February 2012<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ECvtXqtAZDE/T1ANxxtfuRI/AAAAAAAAAGA/oGAcsVQjbZQ/s1600/L1030126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ECvtXqtAZDE/T1ANxxtfuRI/AAAAAAAAAGA/oGAcsVQjbZQ/s320/L1030126.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><o:p> Amuri Tepui in the moonlight. All photos Copyrighted material- please don't steal</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">As it is with many expeditions, the most exciting and dangerous moments on this trip had nothing to do with climbing. So it was, late one particular night. Four of us we’re crammed into the back of a Jeep, while our drunken, mad German tour guide was driving the wrong way down the sidewalk of a busy street in Ciudad Bolivar. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">“Vee hav to go back to ze licka store!” </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">We hastily located our seat belts. We had been at the liquor store only a half an hour ago. Our German tour guide, who I’ll call Hans, had gone into the store and bought 4 beers. By the time he left the store he had already consumed 2 of them. He had cracked his first of the day at around 9am.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> “Ah fack! Now my wife iz calling me. She is angry, I sink. I vill hav to get some viskey. Viskey makes me… aggressive. My wife… she duz not like zis.” </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Venezuela seems to be devoid of any driving laws, resulting in absolute mayhem during all hours. The cost of gasoline is about 5 cents a gallon which adds to the havoc. This night was no exception, and the honking of the passing cars sounded like one never-ending horn. In between stops at the liquor store we had gone to the cemetery and waited while Hans stumbled around, drink in hand, looking for his mother-in-law’s late husband’s grave, so that he could change the flowers. All we had wanted was a quick trip to the grocery store. Back in the jeep, we watched in horror as Hans directed the car into oncoming traffic. Suggesting to Hans that we turn around prompted some incoherent response and a wave of the hand. We were committed. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This started as a climbing trip, so rewind about 30 days, and we were loading our gear into a Cessna 207 in the Ciudad Bolivar airport. George Ullrich (UK), Siebe Vanhee (BE), Sam Farnsworth (UK), and I had met up in Caracas on the 25<sup>th</sup> of January. After escaping the “murder capitol of the world” un-stabbed and un-mugged, we were ready to head deep into the jungle. Off a tip we got from Jungle bigwall master John Arran, our goal was to check out the insanely steep Amuri Tepui- the main wall of which remained unclimbed. In our two Cessnas (we had too much gear for one plane) we flew from the chaos of Ciudad Bolivar two hours south to the small, incredibly remote village of Yunek. Populated by 100 or so Pemon indians, this community has gotten accustomed to seeing rock climbers fly in and land on their tiny, grass runway. Upon exiting the plane, we were met by a deep silence not often found in the modern world- just a soft, late afternoon breeze, as rays of sun spilled from behind Acopan Tepui. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gvghkV7fgVE/T1AO-z8Z_FI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/1Fngg_BsjmM/s1600/P1060435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gvghkV7fgVE/T1AO-z8Z_FI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/1Fngg_BsjmM/s320/P1060435.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jqXHOerAzy8/T1AP3WVNoWI/AAAAAAAAAGY/TXJ0_E3dHgk/s1600/P1060520.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jqXHOerAzy8/T1AP3WVNoWI/AAAAAAAAAGY/TXJ0_E3dHgk/s320/P1060520.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hJNlWCBi0WM/T1AXqXpJeEI/AAAAAAAAAHs/r7KI4-75LIw/s1600/P1060978.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hJNlWCBi0WM/T1AXqXpJeEI/AAAAAAAAAHs/r7KI4-75LIw/s320/P1060978.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">We pictured being greeted by great hulking natives, ready to carry massive loads, while we sauntered across the savannah with comfy daypacks. It turns out that the tallest person in the tribe was no more than 5’ foot 3”. We would be doing some heavy lifting. Within an hour, we had 5 keen porters and a guide set to embark with us on the journey the next morning. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
As the crow flies, Amuri Tepui is only 13 miles from Yunek, (according to our Google Earth research) but it would take us the next three full days across wide-open savannah and dark jungle to get to the wall. The porters, with machetes and fishing rods in hand, seemed happy to go on the adventure, and were fishing every night. The machete we brought, half as a joke, turned out to be invaluable for the trip. On the jungle approach, we would hack a notch into a tree every 50 feet or so, so we could find our way back without the guide. When we finally made it to the wall, we had to chop a trail through a dense swath of jungle not yet traveled by man, to reach our desired section of rock. The machete is incredibly effective in jungle travel and makes you feel really cool. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bw3MLC5MVi0/T1AwPh1I0jI/AAAAAAAAAJc/9vBYtbtYYXU/s1600/P1060557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bw3MLC5MVi0/T1AwPh1I0jI/AAAAAAAAAJc/9vBYtbtYYXU/s320/P1060557.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lHoChTHqFCA/T1AQh3X3uXI/AAAAAAAAAGo/ISW8neFHAA0/s1600/P1060571.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lHoChTHqFCA/T1AQh3X3uXI/AAAAAAAAAGo/ISW8neFHAA0/s320/P1060571.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6NFJ_sGZbDw/T1AQuh2FhDI/AAAAAAAAAGw/WF4KYM9LsGM/s1600/P1060581.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6NFJ_sGZbDw/T1AQuh2FhDI/AAAAAAAAAGw/WF4KYM9LsGM/s320/P1060581.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Machete session</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p>The porters left us with our food, and full arsenal of big wall gear. We had 4 weeks to climb a new route on the wildest piece of rock any of us had ever seen. Standing at the base, looking up and out feels like you are in the trough of a 1600’ breaking wave- moments before being engulfed in its barrel. The centerpiece, rocketing off the top of the wall, is a waterfall (Salto Tuyuren), which gracefully plummets before crashing into the ground some 300 feet from the base of the wall. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d4d__p9Etc4/T1ASbCHy67I/AAAAAAAAAHA/YYasfadRaHE/s1600/L1030073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d4d__p9Etc4/T1ASbCHy67I/AAAAAAAAAHA/YYasfadRaHE/s320/L1030073.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">We chose to attempt a line up the very middle of the wall, taking on the steepest rock, and several massive roofs. We of course, were hoping to free climb everything. The climbing was quite tricky from the start. The first pitch had us using triple ropes, nailing birdbeaks, and stacking knifeblades- it went free at 5.11. Three days of climbing later, we committed to the wall. The level of comfort we experienced while on the cliff made it hard to believe we were on an expedition- The temperature was almost always perfect, and we felt not a drop of rain due to the steepness of the wall. After 5 days on the wall we were about halfway up, having free climbed everything. The hardest pitch being an incredible 5.13a traverse that Siebe redpointed. Most of the climbing was easier than 5.12a, with a few HERO 5.10/5.11 pitches thrown in. EVERY single pitch was overhung. The following 3 days though, we made almost zero progress. The even steeper rock looming overhead, and limited food and water forced us to set aside our free climbing goals, so we could focus all our energy on getting to the top.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NkeJaD21HTc/T1Axltd7jeI/AAAAAAAAAJk/9UXtQ_C5wdo/s1600/P1060643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NkeJaD21HTc/T1Axltd7jeI/AAAAAAAAAJk/9UXtQ_C5wdo/s320/P1060643.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T8KFvJAA2_I/T1AWaSOAEjI/AAAAAAAAAHU/72mdVYIoVaI/s1600/L1030202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T8KFvJAA2_I/T1AWaSOAEjI/AAAAAAAAAHU/72mdVYIoVaI/s320/L1030202.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3qJGd5fYRA8/T1AW9H5bEMI/AAAAAAAAAHc/LGbV0SIQyQk/s1600/L1030145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3qJGd5fYRA8/T1AW9H5bEMI/AAAAAAAAAHc/LGbV0SIQyQk/s320/L1030145.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-64gRpFJ8_I8/T1AYkzqtVjI/AAAAAAAAAH8/pELmKSXTjvw/s1600/L1030227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-64gRpFJ8_I8/T1AYkzqtVjI/AAAAAAAAAH8/pELmKSXTjvw/s320/L1030227.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6LBZgQvkT_Q/T1AaK0RIgxI/AAAAAAAAAIE/KSzzkDEpW5Q/s1600/L1030163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6LBZgQvkT_Q/T1AaK0RIgxI/AAAAAAAAAIE/KSzzkDEpW5Q/s320/L1030163.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YCMGq2UVIEM/T1AacsRMxrI/AAAAAAAAAIM/wdUX6mWFqbI/s1600/P1060763.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YCMGq2UVIEM/T1AacsRMxrI/AAAAAAAAAIM/wdUX6mWFqbI/s320/P1060763.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Angry birds</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cdzkB2I53f8/T1AaozEX53I/AAAAAAAAAIU/Xc-bBpka_aE/s1600/P1060764.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cdzkB2I53f8/T1AaozEX53I/AAAAAAAAAIU/Xc-bBpka_aE/s320/P1060764.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Hello friend...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3DyfqL_qlwk/T1AaywRTrAI/AAAAAAAAAIc/G31z2iUf-8Q/s1600/P1060765.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3DyfqL_qlwk/T1AaywRTrAI/AAAAAAAAAIc/G31z2iUf-8Q/s320/P1060765.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I WILL EAT YOU!!!!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">With morale low amongst the team, George pulled through a blank aid lead, with ten hook placements in a row. Our pace sped back up to a mind bending 2- 3 pitches a day, and we were aimed for the summit- every foot of progress bringing us closer to the waterfall. A few more days of aid climbing whippers, George ripping off the tip of his pinky, and me run-out, screaming like a girl on what was probably 5.10+ had us poised for the cumbre. With our last pack of cookies, and only a few liters of water to our names, we topped out in the dying light of the 18<sup>th</sup> of February. We didn’t spend too long on the top, because we were being dive-bombed by a pterodactyl (it may have just been a massive bat). The next day we rapped the route, concluding our 12<sup>th</sup> day on the wall.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KRp56RoiCQc/T1AqYvISOMI/AAAAAAAAAJU/kt2qtOCelcw/s1600/L1030213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KRp56RoiCQc/T1AqYvISOMI/AAAAAAAAAJU/kt2qtOCelcw/s320/L1030213.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LbA5aOqfOn8/T1AbHzPCYnI/AAAAAAAAAIk/NkqJAWLj3Mc/s1600/P1060780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LbA5aOqfOn8/T1AbHzPCYnI/AAAAAAAAAIk/NkqJAWLj3Mc/s320/P1060780.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8rpxjhStvDs/T1AbTz6OSKI/AAAAAAAAAIs/Z7_nSERpUZs/s1600/L1030250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8rpxjhStvDs/T1AbTz6OSKI/AAAAAAAAAIs/Z7_nSERpUZs/s320/L1030250.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Yay I'm so happy</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XjyfPVkbWYI/T1AcNUmpxvI/AAAAAAAAAI0/BzBoQ7UDdRU/s1600/P1060850.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XjyfPVkbWYI/T1AcNUmpxvI/AAAAAAAAAI0/BzBoQ7UDdRU/s320/P1060850.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">George has resilient fingers </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_i6mKdWSKP4/T1Acfg6dOiI/AAAAAAAAAI8/FYoOgtw_LoM/s1600/P1060945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_i6mKdWSKP4/T1Acfg6dOiI/AAAAAAAAAI8/FYoOgtw_LoM/s320/P1060945.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div></div><div class="MsoNormal">After a crippling hike back to Yunek, we thought the ordeal was over. But now, back to the jeep and our misadventure with the drunk German, we narrowly made it back to the liquor store. Hans, belligerent as a badger continued rambling.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">“I don’t like viskey. Vis this… I am getting too drunk. I like vine. Vis vine I… I am opening a new flower… zis I sink iz much nicer.”</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Two hours later, we were still alive and back at the campground. The ordeal was now over. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RrqAks2zwQ8/T1AdToGv8AI/AAAAAAAAAJE/UiJ35Ry_LtE/s1600/Kidswithguns.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RrqAks2zwQ8/T1AdToGv8AI/AAAAAAAAAJE/UiJ35Ry_LtE/s320/Kidswithguns.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Kids With Guns- 5.13a, A3, 21 Pitches, took us a total of 15 climbing days to complete. We placed 6 bolts; four were for belays, and two as protection bolts. The route will almost certainly go free. We are not sure of the height of the wall, but it is in the neighborhood of 450m-500m. Our best estimate is that the wall overhangs a little over 300 feet, making our route one of the steepest in the world. I could not have picked three finer gentlemen to share this grand adventure with.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TxcODV6uFLg/T1Ag1pWrorI/AAAAAAAAAJM/M3gfvZVvSv4/s1600/L1030258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TxcODV6uFLg/T1Ag1pWrorI/AAAAAAAAAJM/M3gfvZVvSv4/s320/L1030258.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Note- The name we have given our route bears no relevance to us being young, or having big muscles, but rather to a song we had stuck in our heads for the duration of the trip.</div>Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-11633879190538967802012-01-12T14:44:00.000-08:002012-01-17T16:00:55.591-08:00Jungle Expedition 2012 After a fun season in the desert, I've spent the past month and a half In Salt Lake, training in the gym and skiing a bit. Down time is fun, and quite necessary sometimes, but I can already start to feel the itch; The itch to venture into truly wild places, and explore the untouched vertical world.<br />
<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h8GsD_mt1l4/TxRtm5IxV5I/AAAAAAAAAFs/n7Dv21d_FzE/s1600/DSC00558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h8GsD_mt1l4/TxRtm5IxV5I/AAAAAAAAAFs/n7Dv21d_FzE/s320/DSC00558.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
</div><div> In just a couple weeks, Sam Farnsworth, Siebe Vanhee, George Ullrich, and I will be traveling deep into the Venezuelan jungle in search of the fabled Amuri Tepui- "steepest wall on earth." Only two teams have climbed routes on this remote tepui, but neither tackle the main amphitheater- which boasts the steepest rock. </div><div><br />
</div><div>This is what happened the last time George and I went on an expedition... Portaledge carnage...<br />
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</div><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="225" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/9479710?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/9479710">Los Fabulosos Dos - Cerro Catedral '10</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/peterhodes">Pete Rhodes</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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While packing for this trip I'm already starting to see some of the benefits of climbing a big wall near the equator- no crampons, ice axes, winter gloves, wind goggles, or giant down parkas. Instead, I'll be bringing a couple pairs of shorts, a few t-shirts, sticky rubber knee pads, and a pair of Ray-Bans. I'm sure the poisonous snakes, malaria, and endless miles of thick, wet jungle will eventually out weigh the wind and snow of Patagonia, but for now, it feels like I'm packing for a Yosemite trip!<br />
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Stay Tuned for updates...<br />
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Meanwhile, check out <a href="http://www.runoutcustoms.com/">Runout Customs</a> for what I think are the best haul bags available, and lots of other custom wall gear.Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-25230423963374286512011-11-13T12:01:00.000-08:002011-11-13T16:09:39.891-08:00More MoabThe temps are getting cooler here in Moab, and the sends are heating up. In-between short periods of rain and snow I have been getting out climbing with various friends.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qV--5_683EM/TsAJqKuHvNI/AAAAAAAAAEw/QXxLZ2YxWf8/s1600/DSC_0088.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qV--5_683EM/TsAJqKuHvNI/AAAAAAAAAEw/QXxLZ2YxWf8/s320/DSC_0088.jpg" width="212" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Crack climbing does not promote bone health. Photo- Florian Herla</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Last week I lured le crack maitre <a href="http://megapeewee.blogspot.com/">Peewee</a> to go check out a beautiful 5.13 finger crack near town. The Hidden Gem was first sent by my good friend Adam Ferro this past spring. Its a 70' pitch, overhanging from the ground to the anchor, going from tight fingers to thumbstacks. Without thinking, we decided to head up to this north facing wall on an arctic day. The rock was very cold, and after 25' of climbing, my fingers were completely numb. I continued climbing, blindly trusting each lock- I have never done so many moves in row with numb fingers. The most painful fit of screaming barfies ensued as my lifeless digits warmed back up- definitely one of my proudest onsights. Much respect to Adam for sending the FA.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vV4XQzDf-1c/TsAUTEnAiSI/AAAAAAAAAE4/pcHkqMqr0Q4/s1600/get-attachment.aspx.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vV4XQzDf-1c/TsAUTEnAiSI/AAAAAAAAAE4/pcHkqMqr0Q4/s320/get-attachment.aspx.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> The Hidden Gem. Photo Jean-Pierre Ouellete</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Several days ago I was lucky enough to rope up with "<a href="http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/">wide boyz</a>" Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker- the two brits who have been murdering the US's hardest offwidths, and establishing even harder ones. We went down to the White Rim in Canyonlands to a 50' roof crack they had found a week prior. It ended up being quite burly, as a 50' roof should, requiring some advanced chicken winging and arm bars to get thru the flaring wideness. One of the #6 camalots was so tipped that it rattled out of the crack as I nudged it with my foot. Spooky! After Pete flashed the first ascent (very impressive effort!), Tom and I both sent after a couple tries. Witness the Wideness checks in at around 12d/13a, and cost us a $75 parking ticket. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nHTKVVkfAlw/TsAc04tOCnI/AAAAAAAAAFA/DnktD0wutk4/s1600/DSC01473.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nHTKVVkfAlw/TsAc04tOCnI/AAAAAAAAAFA/DnktD0wutk4/s320/DSC01473.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom Randall on Witness the Wideness</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1c0xo--QQ38/TsAdJuEQl8I/AAAAAAAAAFI/i2A0uraZiLI/s1600/mason+earle+witness+the+wideness.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1c0xo--QQ38/TsAdJuEQl8I/AAAAAAAAAFI/i2A0uraZiLI/s320/mason+earle+witness+the+wideness.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Bursting blood vessels in my head. Photo Pete Whittaker</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Its raining now. Back to the White Rim soon...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">m</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div>Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-37458447529809013132011-10-24T11:10:00.000-07:002011-10-24T11:10:37.625-07:00The DesertI've been In Moab for 3 days now. The weather is beyond perfect, and new routes are already getting put down. I came out here with my Belgian friend Nico, and his girlfriend Argyro. After a quick stop in Vegas for sushi, and a few pitches at the VRG, we landed in Moab.<br />
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Yesterday, after changing my oil, we put up a beautiful new route at the Town Wall- Going to Hollywood 5.13-. The 35m pitch begins with a 5.11 corner, and after pulling a small roof, a flawless splitter continues for 40 feet. When the crack gets too small to fit fingers into, you bust right onto some bouldery face climbing for the final 15 feet.<br />
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All photos by Florian Herla<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1sgVXzVNz-c/TqWh81QpeAI/AAAAAAAAAEA/ii_Lr2Mf3jw/s1600/DSC_9983.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1sgVXzVNz-c/TqWh81QpeAI/AAAAAAAAAEA/ii_Lr2Mf3jw/s320/DSC_9983.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This is man work!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K0ethuK0sLU/TqWjPzfYsnI/AAAAAAAAAEI/fWoezrvC4xQ/s1600/DSC_0054.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K0ethuK0sLU/TqWjPzfYsnI/AAAAAAAAAEI/fWoezrvC4xQ/s320/DSC_0054.JPG" width="212" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">On the hunt</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I3rm2d1W3aE/TqWkyer55nI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/-qpRzPPpWUM/s1600/DSC_0071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I3rm2d1W3aE/TqWkyer55nI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/-qpRzPPpWUM/s320/DSC_0071.JPG" width="212" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The splitter</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-slHODfOmMGM/TqWlu5yckmI/AAAAAAAAAEY/inEfRzjPLdQ/s1600/DSC_0085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-slHODfOmMGM/TqWlu5yckmI/AAAAAAAAAEY/inEfRzjPLdQ/s320/DSC_0085.jpg" width="212" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wAwnNLsN2P8/TqWnA8X1N3I/AAAAAAAAAEg/gYslCK8ROLM/s1600/DSC_0011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wAwnNLsN2P8/TqWnA8X1N3I/AAAAAAAAAEg/gYslCK8ROLM/s320/DSC_0011.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Nico is a euro sport climber</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9EBBvPbMjfI/TqWobAEV9WI/AAAAAAAAAEo/0NSsxgCXY2k/s1600/DSC_0032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9EBBvPbMjfI/TqWobAEV9WI/AAAAAAAAAEo/0NSsxgCXY2k/s320/DSC_0032.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">But he can also crack climb</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">More FAs today...</div>Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-6247593045176142792011-09-25T23:25:00.000-07:002011-09-28T12:15:55.683-07:00VictoryA big thanks to everyone who voted for our Venezuela expedition in the Berghaus Adventure Challenge- this recent victory will greatly help us fund the trip!<br />
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I'm in Yosemite Valley now, and have been getting out climbing in between short thunderstorms. Several days ago a few friends and I went up to climb Heaven; a stunning 12d roof crack way up on glacier point. Heaven sits perched atop 3000 feet of slab, overlooking Vernal and Nevada falls, as well as Liberty Cap, Half Dome, Mt. Watkins, Washington Column, and the Royal Arches. Its a nice view<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEzJc_8ImL4/Tn-LkloOB5I/AAAAAAAAADs/uGJMMUHSFD0/s1600/DSC01398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEzJc_8ImL4/Tn-LkloOB5I/AAAAAAAAADs/uGJMMUHSFD0/s320/DSC01398.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> Chugging my way to the top second go. photo- Pete Rhodes<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L7kOK9fV37o/Tn-MheboqmI/AAAAAAAAADw/2UcVNjR6VMA/s1600/DSC01409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L7kOK9fV37o/Tn-MheboqmI/AAAAAAAAADw/2UcVNjR6VMA/s320/DSC01409.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> This is my friend Alex. He flashed it... without a rope. photo- Mason Earle<br />
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In the next few weeks, Brad Gobright and I will head back up onto the Heart Route- making what will hopefully be our final bid to free climb the entire wall. We have been working on free-climbing the Heart Route for two years now, and have done all but one move- a massive 8 foot downward dyno. Most El Cap free routes seem to involve some monster dyno, but it may be possible to bypass the leap by tiptoeing thru some truly improbable micro edging. Time will tell.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VcjL3oBM7Os/ToAZInGFhDI/AAAAAAAAAD0/IdHoayTSiZ8/s1600/DSC00844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VcjL3oBM7Os/ToAZInGFhDI/AAAAAAAAAD0/IdHoayTSiZ8/s320/DSC00844.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> Free climbing on El Cap often requires Xtreme shenanigansMasonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-70920793452472933622011-09-19T15:05:00.000-07:002011-09-19T15:06:20.593-07:00VOTE TODAY!!So I'm back in Yosemite, doing some training. Since I left Squamish, I soloed the RNWF of Half Dome in 4+ hours, climbed the Nose in 4+, and flailed up freerider in 10+. Its been good training for the bigger projects to come this fall. More importantly tho, I'm planning an expedition to venezuela this fall with some friends, and if you go to this website:<br />
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http://www.berghaus.com/en/adventure-challenge/shortlists <br />
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you can vote for our expedition to receive some funding. Voting ends tomorrow, and although we are kicking ass in the lead at the moment, it is by no means a sure victory.<br />
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</div><div>We want to go climb this....</div><div><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FRNNZ9VAgI4/Tne8kpgKQQI/AAAAAAAAADo/Iu3EeK7eCgU/s1600/amuri_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FRNNZ9VAgI4/Tne8kpgKQQI/AAAAAAAAADo/Iu3EeK7eCgU/s320/amuri_02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br />
</div>Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-15258568380419208592011-08-12T16:58:00.000-07:002011-08-13T17:07:44.747-07:00SquamishThe past month I have been in Squamish. I believe Jim Bridwell or someone once said that Yosemite was the "training grounds" for the greater ranges. Well, Squamish is sort of like the training grounds for Yosemite. In the same day one can climb big long free routes, go climb steep sport routes, and then have an evening of bouldering. There is an amazing amount of high quality, and accessible rock climbing to do here- great for getting fit. Lately I've been doing a lot of sport climbing, in an attempt to actually become a stronger climber, and managed to tick "Patience," a route the guidebook called 5.14a.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JR6Fx7vYpGI/TkWi3eB1uoI/AAAAAAAAADk/KevwMyBxgfA/s1600/106084961_large_c39246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="113" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JR6Fx7vYpGI/TkWi3eB1uoI/AAAAAAAAADk/KevwMyBxgfA/s320/106084961_large_c39246.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> The Chief<br />
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Earlier today Alex Honnold and I set a new speed record for the Grand Wall, climbing from the base to the top of the Roman Chimneys in 59 minutes and 30 seconds- beating our good friends Will Stanhope and Jason Kruk's impressive record of 1 hour and 13 minutes.<br />
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I have also been working hard on trying to finish up the Cobra Crack. Yesterday I came stupidly close to sending, falling off the final move of the crux.<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="225" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/27641846?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/27641846">Falling off the Cobra</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2749350">Mason Earle</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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Thats about it.Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-33178067828353923682011-06-11T11:56:00.000-07:002011-06-16T09:16:14.847-07:00Nose soloAfter a few weeks of rain and snow in Yosemite this spring, It was time to destroy some rock and do something sick. El Cap is by far the most bitch'n thing in the valley, but after all the precip, free climbing was temporarily out of the question. With various partners over the years I've climbed the Nose several times, and always thought it would be fun to try to solo it in a day. In high school, I watched the MoS segment of Dean Potter blazing up the nose in 12 hours a hundred or so times, and have since had it in my head that that was the pinnacle of sickness.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-85Ag8BxLzXQ/TfOYJNlTH3I/AAAAAAAAADY/hB5fEj79wKM/s1600/DSC01359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-85Ag8BxLzXQ/TfOYJNlTH3I/AAAAAAAAADY/hB5fEj79wKM/s320/DSC01359.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> Late May in Yosemite<br />
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I first did a run up to dolt tower, and quickly realized how much work soloing entailed. What usually took under two hours, became a five hour pain in the ass. I gave up on the idea until resident wall ninja Aaron Jones lent me his rope soloing cord and a few pitches with the new rope had me re-psyched on the mission.<br />
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The day started with me trying to go to sleep at around 9. For whatever reason I couldn't fall alseep, and the time on my cell phone went from 10 to 11 to 2:30 until 3:30 when my alarm went off. Not stoked about not sleeping, I got up anyways and headed for the base of El Cap. I started climbing at 4:30, and a mixture of rope soloing, free soloing and "mega death looping" got me to dolt in 3:50. Psyched on a sub 16 hour pace, I kept raging, passing 6 parties. By Camp 5 I was starting to get pretty tired, but kept moving, and a few pitches from the top I realized I might top out before dark. I flipped the anger switch and started motoring, racing the sun. At the final bolt ladder, I threw the rope on my back and charged up the bolts to the rim as the sun set. I checked the watch at the tree that marks the top of the route: I had been climbing for 15:55. I believe i'm the 7th or 8th person to solo the Nose in a day. After a moment's contemplation on the summit, I made my way down the east ledges descent and went straight to bed.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TDm_-uFZJ5E/TfO2beHvh6I/AAAAAAAAADc/jFWoVm60A_4/s1600/6+Boot+jam.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TDm_-uFZJ5E/TfO2beHvh6I/AAAAAAAAADc/jFWoVm60A_4/s320/6+Boot+jam.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> Approaching the Boot flake party. Tom Evans Photo<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L7cieZVRV5E/TfO3Az3fmmI/AAAAAAAAADg/6D4FEOE91Ug/s1600/10+Mason+Earle+at+C5+on+solo+NIAD.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L7cieZVRV5E/TfO3Az3fmmI/AAAAAAAAADg/6D4FEOE91Ug/s320/10+Mason+Earle+at+C5+on+solo+NIAD.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Partying alone on Camp 5. Tom Evans Photo</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">More pics to come...</div>Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-78267333187227565022011-04-21T17:09:00.000-07:002011-04-21T17:10:44.845-07:00Hot Pork Sunday<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Hot Pork Sunday is an amazing two pitch splitter on Second Meat wall, in Indian Creek. The route was first climbed by Matt Lisenby, but to my knowledge the 40 meter second pitch was never freed. Swedish crack master Petter Restorp and I decided to check out the monster pitch this spring, and quickly realized it was quite difficult. The marathon pitch culminates with a wicked left leaning narrowing finger splitter. the featureless left wall further increases the desperate nature of the climb, forcing you to smear your left foot above your waist. Before he could send, Petter had to leave for Sweden, and tore off a huge chunk of his knuckle on his final go. I kept at it, falling off of the final move 3 consecutive times before finally sketching my way to the top. A big thanks to Sender Films for the rad pics!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f6eeFmYUpwo/TbCgVvj5KqI/AAAAAAAAACs/iVM6c1CBnWg/s1600/IMG_8614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f6eeFmYUpwo/TbCgVvj5KqI/AAAAAAAAACs/iVM6c1CBnWg/s320/IMG_8614.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> Burt Bronson at the belay<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FiHP42XM_HE/TbChOzajNEI/AAAAAAAAACw/9HtdDyqF_oI/s1600/IMG_8628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FiHP42XM_HE/TbChOzajNEI/AAAAAAAAACw/9HtdDyqF_oI/s320/IMG_8628.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> entering the crux<br />
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Some rest day rope jumping<br />
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/22721025">Jumping off Cliffs in Utah</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2749350">Mason Earle</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-91025290942205627012011-04-06T18:06:00.000-07:002011-04-12T11:58:24.570-07:00RageAfter a winter of skiing, swinging hammers and swilli'n whisky, I find myself back in the Moab desert. I flew into Durango two weeks ago to climb with old friends and get my car- since then its been full throttle raging. <br />
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The past week I've been down in the creek with a good crew. Yesterday my good friend from Sweden, Petter Restorp and I went up to a project on Second meat wall- a beautifull arching off-hands off-fingers splitter. We gave it a pretty good effort, deciding it was probably the hardest crack either of us had tried in the creek. As soon as our fingers heal, we'll have another bash at it, and hopfully get some better pics of the destruction.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wHEgCkLUgHo/TZ0LqHOwvxI/AAAAAAAAACE/6ifUXfZhjPM/s1600/DSC01118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wHEgCkLUgHo/TZ0LqHOwvxI/AAAAAAAAACE/6ifUXfZhjPM/s320/DSC01118.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> An enthusiastic Petter jugs the first pitch on... The Proj<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VRGY3avqUoI/TZ0J8vlRgoI/AAAAAAAAAB8/ujkkzXuOy5I/s1600/DSC01143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VRGY3avqUoI/TZ0J8vlRgoI/AAAAAAAAAB8/ujkkzXuOy5I/s320/DSC01143.jpg" width="240" /></a></div> Todays activity Photo by Thomas Sloss<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-We8bYrB1KME/TZ0K2hMsd0I/AAAAAAAAACA/vM4RFCQDCyE/s1600/DSC01128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-We8bYrB1KME/TZ0K2hMsd0I/AAAAAAAAACA/vM4RFCQDCyE/s320/DSC01128.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> Jan with the ball 'n chain leash<br />
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Meanwhile, check out SoCal hardman Brad Gobright's blog <a href="http://bradgobrightsblog.blogspot.com/">here</a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/"></a>Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-75649785815971582402011-02-02T16:13:00.000-08:002011-02-02T16:13:33.917-08:00Skiing I've been super stoked the past few days to be skiing up at Alta in Salt Lake City with my friend Holly. A storm rolled thru here monday, and we got about 16 inches of new snow- the makings for a pretty epic Tuesday. I've realized that skiing is a lot more fun, and much easier than rock climbing. Im not sure what this means, but here are a couple short clips of the shredding.<br />
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Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-11560021067109929002011-01-06T11:00:00.000-08:002011-01-06T11:10:43.986-08:00More Utah shotsHere are a few awesome shots of the price of evil taken by the legendary Heinz Zak.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Pm7wOWuD3IM/TSYOkJcGkgI/AAAAAAAAABw/dvKHHS9kcfQ/s1600/_DSC4440-1-10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Pm7wOWuD3IM/TSYOkJcGkgI/AAAAAAAAABw/dvKHHS9kcfQ/s320/_DSC4440-1-10.jpg" width="212" /></a></div> Bellyful of Bad Berries<br />
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Thanks Heinz! Check out www.heinzzak.com<br />
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Here in Massachusetts, things are smaller and not quite as exciting...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Pm7wOWuD3IM/TSYQKvPw-fI/AAAAAAAAAB0/6_EYNnkVZdY/s1600/DSC01026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Pm7wOWuD3IM/TSYQKvPw-fI/AAAAAAAAAB0/6_EYNnkVZdY/s320/DSC01026.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Unless you try to go skiing...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyC70OA1BRC-faRQrkNyRCp1AtWsgAyrEEcRLCJ38fUDCZswkxFvrxWsUEIXmycue1iSc86mcrpWqVH9TssSA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>Masonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7678625333766138660.post-65887315446380485932010-12-09T17:25:00.000-08:002010-12-11T12:51:01.919-08:00Fall 2010!This is a trip report of my fall in Yosemite and Utah. Enjoy!<br />
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<b>Yosemite</b><br />
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The weather in the Valley this fall was not exactly Ideal. A couple of huge rainstorms soaked the Capitan to it's core, resulting in prolonged periods of seeping cracks and wet faces. This is what ultimately shut down our proj for the season, but we still made some great progress.<br />
Over the past year, Brad Gobright and I have been working on a new free line on the west side of El Cap. The route will be an 8 pitch variation to the Huber's Golden Gate, leaving the Salathe 6 pitches earlier. The variation has a handful of difficult pitches that will make the route more direct and quite a bit harder than GG.<br />
This October we went for a full redpoint attempt on the route. After 4 days on the wall, we had team freed up to the 23rd pitch; a short, steep, exposed arete that marks the final crux before joining GG. We quickly saw that it was dripping, no doubt from the torrential rain right before we got on the wall. After a day and a half of waiting and trying to dry the pitch we bailed, intending to return five days or so later when the pitch would be dry. Five days or so later brought even heavier rains, and with November near that was it for the season. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Pm7wOWuD3IM/TQO2bqPFG2I/AAAAAAAAAA0/H47u6-zdl0s/s1600/9+mbht.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Pm7wOWuD3IM/TQO2bqPFG2I/AAAAAAAAAA0/H47u6-zdl0s/s320/9+mbht.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> On the 12c roof pitch<br />
Photo- Tom Evans<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Pm7wOWuD3IM/TQO7v9eqlxI/AAAAAAAAABQ/z0Brzp6s4jk/s1600/DSC00817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Pm7wOWuD3IM/TQO7v9eqlxI/AAAAAAAAABQ/z0Brzp6s4jk/s320/DSC00817.JPG" width="240" /></a></div> On a heady 12+ pitch<br />
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Photo- Tom Evans<br />
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Inspired by my good friend Will Stanhope who sent the day before, I managed to nab an ascent of the painfull Sasquatch (a steep finger crack put up by Dean Potter) before I left the valley.<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="300" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17624364" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/17624364">Sasquatch</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2749350">Mason Earle</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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<b>Utah</b><br />
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Once in Moab, my Israeli friend Amit and I got straight to business on an old Indian Creek project of mine. It was a route I found at Reservoir Wall in 2008 with Nico Favresse. Nico left before he could do it, and I couldn't link the crimpy less-than-tips moves on lead. After 2 days of work on it this November tho, I was able to send what we called Machete 5.13.<br />
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<b>Red Rocks</b><br />
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I had to go to Vegas for a week, and while out there I got an onsight of the classic Desert Gold 5.13a. Sadly though, I have no pictures!<br />
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<b>Utah</b><br />
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Next up was a project that had been haunting me since I first found it a year and a half ago. Its a second pitch offwidth roof right off the road near Blue Gramma cliff. I had given this route many tries, and destroyed a few pairs of pants and shoes. I was reluctant to get back on it, knowing how hard, painfull, and un-fun the pitch was, but after three more back breaking sessions, I finally fired the FA. I called it The Price of Evil 5.13-, a name Pamela Shanti Pack came up with, as she had come close to sending the route this spring.<br />
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The last few weeks of the trip was mostly spent highlining, but I did get out to send a few other nice routes. Had a nice day out at the Crackhouse with friends and some BASE jumping hooligans, sending it from the Potter traverse start. I also got to do the first free ascent of a really nice sport route on Potash road. My friend Ryan, who was on the FA team was nice enough to let me get on it. Horizontal Mambo-5.12d climbs the start of the popular Bad Moki Roof, then traverses right out the middle of the massive roof on awesome jugs, culminating with a sandy, insecure mantle. Definitely the steepest line on Potash. In near darkness after a couple sessions, I sent wearing a headlamp with dying batteries.<br />
The last send of the trip was Bushido-5.13, a massive underclinging arch first sent by Noah Bigwood. I headed up there with Canyon Cain, a local crusher, who by the age of thirteen has already sent 5.13 in the Creek. I gave it a solid onsight attempt falling at the final crux, 25 feet from the end. Canyons micro hands made the first half of the route a lot harder, but he made a solid effort. I returned a few days later for the redpoint, and what I think was the fourth or fifth ascent.<br />
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Back in Mass now, its either Patagonia or plastic season, and I'm choosing plastic this round. Getting psyched for the spring.<br />
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MMasonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14512692023535116157noreply@blogger.com1