Friday, May 11, 2012


 I cringe every time I read a blog post that starts off with “sorry, I know its been a long time since my last post.” It has been a while since I’ve written anything, and I’m not sorry, I’ve been busy.  This spring has been quite turbulent  for me, but I’ll stick to what I’ve been doing on the rock climbing  front.

After gaining back the weight and strength I lost in Venezuela this winter (which took the better part of a month), my good friend Nik Berry talked me into a massive Zion link-up. We climbed Sheer Lunacy, Moonlight Buttress, and Monkey Finger all free with one fall, in about 18 hours.  We we’re both pretty pooped.

Photo: Jeremiah Watt

As it seems to happen every spring, I gravitated back to the Moab area, where there exists a never-ending supply of radical first ascent projects to work on.  I didn’t end up sending any of these radical projects this spring, but I’ll have my work cut out for me this fall. The main route I was working on was a beautiful  micro-splitter, up on South Mesa. This flared, gently overhung crack delivers some of the most difficult and sustained trad climbing I have tried. I’m quite excited to get back up there and put‘r to bed.

Photo: Kyle Berkompas
Onsight, on Fallen Arches. Photo: Ally Coconis

Presently, I’m in an airplane bound for my birth state of Vermont. En-route to a week long expedition to the wild, and remote land of Quebec. Tabernac!

Also, check out a BITCH’N new 2 pitch route that my friend Burt Bronson and I put up this spring.