Thursday, April 21, 2011

Hot Pork Sunday

Hot Pork Sunday is an amazing two pitch splitter on Second Meat wall, in Indian Creek. The route was first climbed by Matt Lisenby, but to my knowledge the 40 meter second pitch was never freed. Swedish crack master Petter Restorp and I decided to check out the monster pitch this spring, and quickly realized it was quite difficult. The marathon pitch culminates with a wicked left leaning narrowing finger splitter. the featureless left wall further increases the desperate nature of the climb, forcing you to smear your left foot  above your waist. Before he could send, Petter had to leave for Sweden, and tore off a huge chunk of his knuckle on his final go. I kept at it, falling off of the final move 3 consecutive times before finally sketching my way to the top. A big thanks to Sender Films for the rad pics!

                                       Burt Bronson at the belay
                                         entering the crux

Some rest day rope jumping

Jumping off Cliffs in Utah from Mason Earle on Vimeo.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011


After a winter of skiing, swinging hammers and swilli'n whisky, I find myself back in the Moab desert. I flew into Durango two weeks ago to climb with old friends and get my car- since then its been full throttle raging.

The past week I've been down in the creek with a good crew. Yesterday my good friend from Sweden, Petter Restorp and I went up to a project on Second meat wall- a beautifull arching off-hands off-fingers splitter. We gave it a pretty good effort, deciding it was probably the hardest crack either of us had tried in the creek. As soon as our fingers heal, we'll have another bash at it, and hopfully get some better pics of the destruction.

                       An enthusiastic Petter jugs the first pitch on... The Proj

                               Todays activity  Photo by Thomas Sloss

                         Jan with the ball 'n chain leash

Meanwhile, check out SoCal hardman Brad Gobright's blog here